Discovering the true beauty of a land often means venturing into its lesser-known corners—places where history whispers through cobblestones and arches. That’s why, in this article, we take you to Zuccarello, a captivating village tucked away in the hinterland of Albenga.
Just like Verezzi and Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena, Zuccarello holds its place among the Borghi più Belli d’Italia—a shining example of a territory still untouched by mass tourism.
A GLIMPSE INTO HISTORY
Only 19 km from Alassio, a short 15-minute drive brings you to this fortified gem founded in 1248, watched over by the proud remains of the Del Carretto castle.
The journey begins at the Sottana Gate, flanked by medieval towers, leading into the village’s heart via an arcade-lined main street.
Just beyond the gate, a late medieval bridge spans the Neva creek, for which the valley is named. Zuccarello’s layout remains faithfully medieval, revealing a winding network of caruggi—narrow alleyways steeped in centuries-old charm.
Strategically built along the ancient salt route, the village grew as a commercial hub. Many of its porticoed doorways are framed with remnants of historic shopfronts, their stone shelves once used to display goods. Some still operate with these curious and charming features intact.
PLACES YOU SHOULDN’T MISS
Parish Church of St Bartholomew
Documented in 1321, but likely older, this church is adorned with 15th–19th century frescoes and two standout works:
A painting featuring the Virgin and several saints by Orazio De Ferrari.
A wooden processional chest sculpted by Paolo Olivari in 1842.
Oratory of S. Maria Nascente
Rebuilt in the 17th century, its vaulted ceiling hosts a splendid oval of the Virgin, surrounded by angels and clouds. Also preserved here: a 15th-century crucifix and baroque-era paintings.
Church of Our Lady of the Snows
Once a refuge for wayfarers, this church—known as the eremierio—stood just outside the village walls, welcoming travelers as they awaited entry.
EVENTS THAT BRING THE VILLAGE TO LIFE
Two major events mark the seasonal rhythm of Zuccarello:
Historical Re-enactment of the Wedding of Ilaria Del Carretto (July): one of Liguria’s most cherished costumed festivals.
Pumpkin Festival (late October–early November): a vibrant celebration where stalls, food tastings, and golden foliage enchant visitors.
WALKING FROM CASTLE TO CASTLE
From Zuccarello to Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena
Set off on Sentiero di Ilaria, a scenic path that leads from Via del Castello to Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena. Just past the village gate, you’re greeted by a bronze statue of Ilaria Del Carretto, sculpted by Flavio Furlano.
Stroll under medieval arcades, spot the fustigation column, and take a short detour to the ruins of Zuccarello Castle.
As you leave the ruins behind, a cobbled trail weaves through olive and chestnut terraces. A quaint chapel appears along the way, and an hour later, the timeless silhouette of Castelvecchio emerges.
CASTELVECCHIO: A VILLAGE SUSPENDED IN TIME
Circling its castle like an embrace, Castelvecchio is the first and most beautiful walled village of the Neva Valley. Built in the 11th century by the Clavesana family, the castle defended a vital salt route and held firm against powerful foes like Genoa and Savoy.
Today, stone houses with terracotta roofs, tufa portals, and arched attics tell the story of life steeped in tradition. Ovens protrude from house walls where communal bread was once baked. And white window frames evoke Alpine–Provençal motifs.
Among the fortress houses—some built with earthquake-proof arches—stands the one where Björn Afzelius once wrote his songs, a quiet tribute to music, memory, and place.
Don’t miss the Church of the Assumption, with its baroque renovations and Gothic bell tower, or the Oratory of the Disciplinants, overlooking Tower Square. From the road to the cemetery, you reach the Sanctuary of Madonna delle Grazie, nestled on a hilltop with breathtaking views.
GOSSIP FROM THE PAST: ILARIA’S LEGACY
In 1403, Ilaria Del Carretto, daughter of the Marquis of Zuccarello, married Paolo Guinigi, lord of Lucca. Tragically, she died in childbirth at just 26.
Yet her legacy endures: immortalized in marble by Jacopo della Quercia, her sculpted sarcophagus in Lucca’s Cathedral of San Martino captivated poets like Pasolini, Quasimodo, and D’Annunzio.
Princesses who die young always linger in memory.
YOUR TURN TO DISCOVER
We’ve traced the footsteps of Ilaria, the stories carved in stone and sung in silence.
Now it’s yours to experience: → Walk where she walked → Breathe her mountain air → Feel the echo of centuries
